Make sure everything at this most basic level of the inspection works and looks like it’s supposed to. Always take into account a car’s age and pedigree. A 1999 Ford Taurus that spent the winters in Kenosha, WI, isn’t going to look as nice as a similar model that lived in Sebring, FL.
- Make note of any exterior damage just like you would with a rental car. Fresh dents could appear between the time you first inspect it and when it comes time to buy.
- Open the doors and see if they shut snugly. Doors that are out of whack might have gotten that way from an accident that wasn’t fixed well (or at all).
- Look at the hinges and door latches for signs of rust and damage.
- Pop the trunk and unlatch the hood.
- Inspect the gas cap and see how difficult it is to open.
- Inspect the paint from different angles. Flaking should send off warning signals.
- Check for scratches. Some are normal. Deep scratches signal potential for rust. Scratches on the undercarriage could indicate off-road abuse or accident damage.
- Examine the tires for uneven wear, which signals alignment problems. It’s an old trick from the Shell answer man, but stick a penny in the treads. You don’t want to see too much of Lincoln’s head.
- Make a note of the tire info on the sidewalls. An unethical person could swap tires on your prior to sale and you would never know it.
- Turn the headlights on. Click on the turn signals and the hazards. Make sure all the lenses are relatively clear. Cloudy headlight lenses could indicate moisture has gotten inside. Look at the windshield for cracks of any size.
- Run your finger along any rubber molding. Dry spots point to bad seals where moisture can get in.
